Islands of Estonia
Islands of Estonia
Naissaar - Prangli - Saaremaa - Vormsi -
Off the coast of the northernmost of the Baltic states are a number of islands, which during the Cold War were of utmost strategic importance to the Soviet Union. In Naissaar for instance, the local population was forced to relocate, turning the island into a heavily fortified military garrison. In Saaremaa, which in the 19th century had established itself as a major spa destination, access to beaches was severely curtailed. And in Vormsi, at the end of World War II, a large majority of islanders took flight from the advancing Red Army and made their escape by boat to Sweden. With Estonia’s independence in 1991, these islands were turned to civilian use once more. Property was handed back to their rightful owners and access to land and beaches granted. Yet, in some places, 50 years of military occupation allowed nature to reclaim large swathes, in the process establishing some unique eco systems. For those aiming to get away from it all, there can’t be many places in Europe that are more suitable.
Trip Essentials
It might be best to base yourself in the Estonian capital Tallinn, in itself a fabulous destination (see my post on a Baltic Road Trip). The hip district of Kalamaja would be an excellent choice, as it provides easy access to the bus station (in order to get to Saarema and Vormsi), as well as the ferry departure point at Lennusadam for Naissaar. In order to get to Prangli, you have to make your way to the eastern suburb of Leppneeme. Local busses or a Volt ride will take you there.
All islands can be visited as day excursions, although in the case of Saaremaa this would be a tight squeeze. I therefore suggest an overnight stay in the island’s biggest resort Kuressare. Air BnB has plenty of options.
Vormsi
Island #1: Vormsi
Bus #227 from Tallinn Bus Station to Rohuküla (2 hours) from where a ferry leaves for the village of Sviby (30 minutes). Book your tickets at Veeteed. Once on the island, you can rent bikes at Sviby Rent.
The island was first settled by Swedish migrants in the 13th century who established a thriving, self-sufficient community, that continued to speak a Swedish dialect. In 1944 however, half the population fled back to Sweden, fearing either German mobilisation in the dying days of World War II, or Soviet occupation. The community-run museum in Sviby tells the fascinating story of the ‘great escape’. Soon after, the Red Army moved in, turning the island into a military exclusion zone. Still today, barracks, an abandoned air strip and the crumbling Orthodox church in the central hamlet of Hullo serve as reminders of the decades-long presence of the Soviet military.
Sviby, Vormsi
What used to be a lively community of up to 2000 residents has now stabilised at 200, though doubling in size during the summer months. One shop, one café, several guesthouses (check out Google Maps) spread out over a couple of settlements. That’s about it. Given the paucity of traffic and the flat terrain, the island is ideal for a bike ride, and I cycled through dense forests (of course), past fields, meadows and pretty homes that had a distinctively Scandinavian look. It felt like riding through the set of an Astrid Lindgren movie. And on occasion, I experienced total silence; not even the distant hum of farm machinery.
Naissaar
Island #2: Naissaar
Book a day trip through Nicesaar. Their boat leaves from Quay A2, located behind the Maritime Museum on the Kalamaja harbour front in Tallinn.
You can just about make out the island on the distant horizon when looking in a north-westerly direction from Tallinn harbour. Naissaar had been instrumentalised as a military fortification to defend St. Petersburg ever since the days of Peter the Great in the 18th century. The Red Army arrived in 1944 with heavy weaponry, chucked everyone off the island and dumped around 150,000 mines in the surrounding sea (of which 6,000 have not been recovered to this day). The Soviets vacated the place in 1994, leaving behind military vehicles, gun battalions, housing for troops and even the officers mess, now all in varying stages of decay.
Some locals have started to use the place as convenient summer residences given the close proximity to Tallinn by often simply moving into abandoned premises, but also by building on newly allocated plots, giving the island the atmosphere of a down-at-heel hippy community. I booked a two-hour tour with local outfit Nicesaar to ride on the back of an old Soviet army truck past military facilities (earmarked by the government to be turned into an outdoor museum exhibition), battery fortifications, as well as an imposing lighthouse. The tour is really intended for military buffs, and it is also perfectly feasible to simply book the ferry return and walk along one of several marked trails and go for a swim (head along the east coast for some fine, white sand stretches).
Naissaar feels positively spooky. Rusting machinery, abandoned vehicles and even railway cars, as well as dilapidated houses are everywhere with a sea breeze whistling through dense pine forests. Yet, from its coastline you can see the metropolitan lights of Tallinn. But for now, the island is a historical graveyard of the Cold War. Maybe the envisaged museum expansion will bring the place into the 21st century. For now though, it is but a ghostly reminder of a period of occupation, military conflict and paranoia.
Prangli
Island #3: Prangli
From Linnahall, take Bus #8 to Liilia tee followed by Bus #V7A to Leppneeme, which in itself is located in the eastern Tallinn suburb of Viimsi. The trip to the harbour could easily take over an hour, so you might want to consider using the Volt Ride share app for what what is essentially just a 30-minute trip. Purchase your tickets for the local ferry in advance. The crossing is about one hour.
Not much military evidence on this island though, but a small community of some 300 souls with a shop, a couple of restaurants, and even a school and a doctor’s practise. On my visit on a sunny summer Sunday, the ferry was packed. This is very much day-tripping territory. Prangli has been settled for well over 600 years, as evidenced by some ancient gravestones in the grounds of the church, bearing Finnish, Swedish and Estonian names. The soil is often sandy, with only the odd stretch of arable land. I was somehow strongly reminded of Cape Cod. Just like in Naissaar, I came across the odd ramshackle building, some old Soviet army gear and farm vehicles rusting in the front yard. But I also spotted fancy weekend retreats. My personal highlight was the 10 km roundtrip hike to the northern tip of the island with far-reaching views across Tallinn Bay. At finally, friendly folk, kitted out with packed lunches and drinks enjoying a day out in the sunshine. I liked the place. A lot.
Prangli
Island #4: Saaremaa
From Tallinn, a direct bus (4 hours) takes you all the way to the island’s main settlement Kuressaare. For options check out Rome2Rio. Those with a personal means of transport need to head southwest to the port of Virtsu from where a ferry takes you the island of Muhu (30 minutes) which is linked to Saaremaa via a causeway. At weekends and in high season, it is recommended to book your tickets in advance directly with the local operator Praamid.
Saaremaa
Estonia’s largest island looks pretty and pleasant without being spectacular. What is noticeable though is the slightly different topography in comparison with the mainland: mixed woodlands with deciduous trees (I appreciate a nice pine, but …) shrubs and corn fields dotted across a rolling landscape. But for a place that is at the top of the country’s tourist agenda, it is also strangely depopulated with only few tourists around even at the height of the season. If not now, then when? Kuressaare is the only noticeable settlement; just about big enough to be referred to as a town. And the island’s capital is charming with clean streets, beautiful and quirky architecture, lovely parks, and an agreeable beachfront. It came to prominence in the 19th century as a spa destination, when wealthy Russians indulged in mud cures whilst taking in the salty air. The town somehow survived the collectivisation practises of the USSR regime, and since independence gradually started to attract international visitors, albeit in small numbers, mainly from other Baltic countries.
Kuressaare, Saaremaa
But they ought to come in larger numbers. For the spa treatments, if this is your thing but also for the fabulous Kuressaare fortress, built by Swedish settlers in the 17th century. It now houses the rather excellent Saaremaa Museum, which is also wonderfully chaotic given that it stretches out across all seven floors of the castle, whose design does not necessarily lend itself to a coherent synchronicity of exhibitions. Up a ladder, down a staircase … the exercise bit was included in the entrance fee. The museum charts the history of the island with a particular focus on Estonia’s turbulent recent past. Just like on Vormsi, there was an exodus by the Swedish population in 1943, with a total of 5,000 people (which seems massive for such a small place) leaving these shores.
Kuressaare Fortress, Saaremaa
My final destination of this trip was the southwestern most tip of the island: the picturesque, and dramatically located lighthouse of Sörve. In the distance I could just about spot the Latvian coastline. The sun was shining, the scenery was beautiful and the sea air indeed salty. Where is everybody?
Sörve lighthouse, Saaremaa